Friday, April 16, 2010

Prepping Basics: Storing Bulk Food Supplies PART 3

The last in our 3 day series on Storing Bulk Food Supplies, we're covering the best options for actually containing your dry food stores. If you're going to order bulk grain, what are you going to do with it? You can't just stack the bags in your garage and expect them to be good to go a year from now. And what about all those pounds of sweetener, canned items, and dehydrated food?


Because my family does not eat boxed meals and I do not encourage others to do so, you won't find instructions here on storing those long term. Some people like to keep these on hand just for emergencies, but I don't want to sacrifice health when my family may need it the most! I will address commercially canned items because some of this is okay to eat, especially in a pinch. 


Long Term Food Containers and Organizers


Grains, flour, dried beans, nuts. These items are fodder for bugs and mice, requiring special handling all their own. I have found that food grade buckets are an excellent solution as well, but you need a lot of these (more on this below). Some co-ops sell grain already in the bucket or you can buy them separately and add your own grain. However, if you are going to buy bulk grain in bags, you need to do a couple of additional steps for long term preservation:


1) Put the bags in the freezer for 3-4 days prior to pouring them in the buckets. This will kill off any small insects. Then you can move the grain to food grade buckets. I usually do this if I plan to use the grain within the next couple of months. When I do this, I usually use a gamma seal on the bucket instead of the standard lid that comes with it. The gamma seal is a ring with a screw top lid which makes it easy to get in the bucket often. You do not need this on all your buckets; just those that you get into regularly. As you use up the grain, you can open another bucket and pour grain into the bucket with the gamma seal.


2) Line the buckets with mylar bags and add oxygen absorbers before sealing the bags OR you can use the oxygen absorbers without the mylar bags and just seal up the bucket with a standard lid. As the packets absorb the oxygen, the lid will create a seal (like when canning) and you should see it sink in a bit on top. (I've tried to research the safety of mylar bags and could not find any negatives despite the fact that they are made of layers of mylar, aluminum, and plastic).


oxygen absorbers

How many buckets do you need? USA Emergency supply has a handy little chart that will help you to determine the number of buckets you might need depending on the food.


Commercially canned goods. You can always just stack these on the self. It's free and easy to do - until you need to start rotating the food. Since we're talking about a way of life here, you'll want to eventually go to the next step. Can trackers or rotating racks can be purchased, made from wood, or even made from cardboard. Some are standing units all by themselves that hold hundreds of cans, while others are shelf size racks that hold a couple of cases. Obviously you're going to pay more for racks that you purchase, and you're going to need a few. Ideally, you want to be able to load the cans from the front as well as retrieve them from the front, so look for a tracking system that works along this principle. It will save you time, energy, and space.


CanOrganizer.com sells a pre-cut cardboard organizer at a reasonable price. It comes in two lengths - cupboard size for $11.96 a four pack and a pantry size that is longer for $15.96. Want to build your own? CanRacks.com has plans which make this much more economical - only $14.95 a set with several to choose from.


Another option... construct a unit with the shelves slanted to one end (picture yourself facing the shelves - the right end of each shelf would be slightly lower than the left end). Be sure to add a small strip of wood across the lower end so that they don't roll out on the floor! Place your unit so that you can access either side of it - the left side is to put the cans in on their side and roll them down to the right side where you will retrieve them when you're ready. Space each slanted shelf close enough to the one above in order to make the most of your space while keeping in mind the various sizes of canned goods. Strips of wood or metal can be nailed on each shelf to make "tracks" so that the cans stay in a lane - you could get several lanes on each shelf depending on how wide you make them. (Sorry I do not have a photo to demonstrate this concept.)


Home canned goods. If you're already canning a lot, you've probably already devised a solution for your home. But assuming you're starting out on this venture, you'll want to consider how to organize these on the shelf. Do not lay them on their sides! Because of BPA on canning lids, you do not want the food to touch the lids any more than necessary. Be sure these are dated so that you are consuming the oldest items first. If you keep these on any kind of metal shelving you can use some type of bungee cords across the front in the event of an earthquake. On wood shelves, just add a narrow piece of wood or attach a dowel rod across the front. 


Dehydrated foods. I use canning jars for these items as well, but mylar bags come in many sizes and are a good option for long term needs. With the canning jar, I use my jar attachment on my Food Saver to remove as much oxygen from the jar as possible. Doing this really extends the life of the dehydrated foods.


Small bags and packets. If you have any small food items  such as bags of bulk spices or herbs in bags, you can put them in canning jars and remove the air (like I mentioned above) or do like several readers have suggested, use a cooler. You can organize the cooler by using little plastic baskets or cardboard boxes that are easy to lift out. I tend to store a lot of this kind of thing in my deep freezer, but if the electricity goes out, well... I need to change this!


For additional information on how long you can store certain foods, read HERE.


Chime in and let me know what you use for long term containers and how you organize them. I know you're a creative group!



18 comments:

  1. This information is very helpful for me right now. I have just ordered hard white spring wheat in 50lbs. and will be picking it up today. I had no idea how to store it. Now I do and I thank you!!!! I am also getting ready to purchase a grain mill. I am thinking of getting a jr. wonder mill deluxe manual mill. Any suggestions? What do you use? Also thanks for recommending the Homesteading Blessings DVD's. I just got them 3 days ago and have been learning much and putting to use what I am learning. My children also love them. Finally, where do you get your buckets and gamma lids? Maybe I can order them from the same place that I purchase a grain mill?

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  2. I have quite a few buckets with the gamma seal that holds our bulk items, oats, flour, etc. I also can quite a bit. Plus we use our food saver and dehydrator!
    I realize that not everyone is able to can their own foods but just as you would discourage againsts boxed foods I would also discourage buying canned foods. They're usually high in sugar and table salts. Some even have things like MSG and other dangerous chemicals used to help "preserve" the conents. I'd say, read the labels carefully and only buy organic if you must buy canned goods.

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  3. Debbie, Pleasant Hill Grain offers both mills AND buckets, gamma seals, oxygen absorbers, and such. I've ordered from them before and been pleased.

    http://www.pleasanthillgrain.com/gamma_seal_lids_gamma_lid_products.aspx

    My mill is the same as the Grain Master Whisper Mill. I've not had any issues with it at all. Works great - but despite the name, it IS loud. All mills are loud unless they are non-electric. I've had a hand crank mill, but was not pleased with how fine it could grind. It was rather course even on the fine setting. I believe it was the Family Grain Mill. I don't know about other manual mills but I've heard good things about the Country Living Grain Mill. Before you order, I would try to find a forum where users are discussing this and see how they like theirs.

    You're on the right path, Debbie! Blessings for health and lots of wonderful bread!

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  4. Heather, I totally agree that commercially canned stuff CAN be bad for you (is that a pun?). I won't buy just anything in a can and when I do, I buy organic. (I've been a major label reader for YEARS).

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  5. I just finished vaccuum packing 50 lbs of corn with a Foodsaver and I'm pleasantly surprised with how well it worked! I'd heard that it didn't always seal well, but I'm very happy with my little bricks of corn!

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  6. Andrea, not to put a damper on things, but check them after a week or so. I had some grain (can't remember what) that poked teeny tiny holes in the vacuum bags and they lost their seal. It wasn't noticeable right away. Dried corn has sharp edges so it has a potential to do this. Hopefully you won't face the same problem. (The Food Saver is still a great tool - just won't work for every single thing!)

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  7. Thanks Amy. I wondered about that, the sharp points on the corn and all. I'm going to stick them in the freezer for a few days and check on the seals after they come out of freezing.

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  8. Debbie-I have found the gamma seals at our local hardware store but I order them much cheaper from our local co-op.

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  9. Also, USA Emergency Supply has a GREAT price on these!

    https://www.usaemergencysupply.com/emergency_supplies/gamma_seal_lid.htm

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  10. Oooh, that is a good price. Our co-op has them for $6.50 but our hardware store sells them for $11 each! Yikes!

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  11. Debbie and Amy - I did quite a bit of research before I bought my electric mill just a few months ago, and found the WonderMill (used to be Whisper Mill) was, by far, the best way to go. It is supposed to be the most quiet mill... so I would hate to hear what the others sound like! It is still pretty loud, but I can grind 3 cups of grain in about 30 seconds. LOVE IT! I grind it as I need it, because it is so quick and easy, and then I don't have to worry about storing the flour in the freezer. I will be watching for a killer deal on a manual mill in the future.

    Thanks again, Amy for all of the wonderful info.

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  12. Amy,
    Thank you for answering my question. I will check this out as well as my local hardware store and see which is cheaper.

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  13. We're not at the point of storing long term, or more than what we might harvest this year, but I really enjoy knowing ahead of time what's good and what to look for.
    I found a brand new Food Saver at a yard sale for $10 with the attachment for the canisters they sell. Because I can't leave it out on the counter I forget to use it. We tried an experiment recently sealing lettuce. It didn't work. :( With the jar attachment option-is that $9.99 for every lid and you have to leave that lid on the jar for the seal to remain intact? That could get pricey!
    My husband has a large scale vacuum seal machine at work and we are going to try bagging grass clippings and vacuum seal it to see if we can "store" our own feed for the livestock over the winter. We'll try soon and wait about a month to test it. If it works we'll still have the summer to store as much as possible!
    Thanks for another great post!

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  14. Kelly, the jar sealers that fit on top of a canning jar come in two sizes. One for the wide mouth canning jars and the other for the regular. You only need one of each. To seal the jar, you place a regular lid on the jar, put the jar sealer on top of it, attach the hose, to both the jar sealer and the Food Saver, push the canister button and it will run until it seals. Then just remove the hose from the jar sealer, pull the jar sealer off, and you're done! You can put the ring on if you want, but it's not necessary. You need to use a spoon to gently pry the suctions seal off so as not to bend the lid any so that it can be reused. I think my Food Saver came with a DVD that shows how to do this, or there may be one on their site. $10 for a Food Saver is EXCELLENT - you did well!

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  15. Amy-thanks for the answer. It sure seemed like that was how it should work, but the site sounded differently. Is that system only good for dry goods that don't need hot water baths?
    I was really excited to see it for $10. My aunt uses one all the time and it looked like a good tool, but I wasn't sure I would actually use it. So for $10 it was worth finding out!

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  16. Kelly, the food saver is not like traditional canning. It's only good for dry goods. I use it for: dried beans, dehydrated foods, yeast, that kind of thing. I use it for items in my refrigerator that are in a canning jar that may be there for a while, too.

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  17. Wow! I started checking out a few about freeze dried food storage until I came across to this one! What a great site! I enjoy seeing websites that understand the value of providing a prime resource for free. Thank you!

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  18. Great site! Have you considered dry pack canning in #10 metal cans? Wheat, oats, sugar and many other foods will last 30 years if this is done properly. It also makes it a bit easier to use your long term storage. The LDS canneries are located around the country and anyone, even non-LDS folks can go use their equipment to dry pack can your own goods. We did 96 cans this weekend in under two hours!

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